Nonami-ura

Historical Footprints

According to the Fudoki, Nonami is described as “Nonami no Hama (beach), 1,144 feet wide. A shrine stands on the eastern side of the beach, and dwellings are present.” This corresponds to a shoreline of approximately 370 meters.

At that time, the shrine associated with Nonami Beach was located on its eastern side. Today, however, the principal shrine in the area—Hinomisaki-jinja—stands at the western end of the beach.

The timing of the kanjo (transfer of the deity) from Hinomisaki-jinja in Taisha Town is unclear. It is said that the deity was first transferred to the island of Oshima, but was later washed away by a tidal wave in the late 16th century and eventually came ashore at its present location.

In the early 18th century, worshippers in Nonami-ura are believed to have prayed at a shrine known as ‘Hinomisaki Daijingu’, which represented the first location after the transfer. Later, the deity was also enshrined in Kasa-ura, Sezaki, Sadahongo, and the smaller settlements of Oashi and Chikumi. Further research is needed to clarify the details of this process.

During the Bunsei period (1818–1830), when Kanezaki Zenbei visited Nonami, he recorded the shrine there as ‘Suga-jinja’. Today, however, this name no longer appears in connection with Nonami.

Until the end of the Meiji period, a shrine called Hiyoshi-jinja stood near the present-day public hall in the Maeda area, sharing its deity with Sugahori-jinja. The place name ‘Maeda’ includes the word ‘mae’ (meaning “in front”), which may refer to being “before the gods.” This raises the possibility that Sugahori-jinja was the same shrine as the ‘Suga-jinja’ recorded in the Bunsei era.

In 1909, Sugahori-jinja and Hiyoshi-jinja were merged with Hinomisaki-jinja to the west, and the name ‘Sugahosato’ subsequently fell out of use. It remains uncertain whether the “shrine in the west” mentioned in the Fudoki refers to this Maeda location or to the now-lost ‘Nunami no yashiro’ also recorded in the text.

Pilgrimage Route Guide

The route from Kaka-jinja to Nonami Shrine follows an old road lined with approximately 700 cherry trees, known as “Cherry Road.” In 1994 (Heisei 6), this road was selected as one of Japan’s “Top 100 Roads with Scenic Trees,” making it a particularly beautiful destination in spring.

Upon arriving at Hinomisaki-jinja in Nonami, visitors are greeted by a prayer hall surrounded by cherry blossoms, almost as if the trees themselves serve as guardians of the shrine.

Hinomisaki-jinja hosts the ‘Otaue Shinji’ ritual each year on January 7, a ceremony held to pray for prosperity and household safety. Participants wearing cow masks, with mochi (rice cakes) dangling from their mouths like tongues, walk around the prayer hall. Leaves are scattered across the floor, and participants of all ages energetically attempt to gather them using hoe-like bamboo tools, creating a lively and festive atmosphere.

Another unique event is the ‘Gacchi Festival’, held annually on October 23. During this festival, locals wear various masks and playfully tap visitors on the back.

The Gacchi Festival is said to be connected to the former Hiyoshi-jinja, once located on Gongesan. Since Hiyoshi-jinja was merged with Hinomisaki-jinja in 1909, this festival may represent an opportunity for the kami to symbolically return to its original home once each year.

Whether the festival reflects the unruly nature sometimes associated with Susanoo, or the protective influence of Amaterasu, remains unclear. The name ‘Gacchi’ itself may derive from the former place name ‘Kachi’, located near Hiyoshi Shrine.

Continuing past the Nonami bathing area from the shrine leads to the Shimane Town Historical Folklore Archive Hall. Though modest in appearance, it houses around 2,000 artifacts from earlier times, including fishing equipment, wooden tools, and clay figures, offering insight into traditional daily life.

With permission from the Shimane Town Public Hall, these materials can be viewed. Similar collections can also be found throughout the Shimane Peninsula, including at the Mihonoseki History and Lifestyle Experience Hall and the Taisha Town Public Archives.