Sezaki-ura

Historical Footprints

After winding through the houses scattered along the hillside behind Sezaki Harbor, visitors eventually reach the grounds of Hinomisaki-jinja. In terms of access, this is a relatively difficult shrine to reach. According to the recollections of local resident Ono Keijiro (d. 1962), the shrine grounds once featured a large pine tree approximately 10 meters in width, which likely served as a prominent landmark.

Sezaki Hinomisaki-jinja is an ancient shrine that provides valuable historical insight. The Unyoushi refers to it as “Nisa Myojin, located in Sezaki, enshrining Tsukutsumi-no-mikoto.” Both the deity and the shrine name correspond exactly to those of Nisa-jinja described in the Shimane district section of the Fudoki, in what is now Chikumi.

According to shrine records, the kanjo (ceremonial transfer of a divided deity) was first performed at the original Nisa-jinja in Chikumi. Later, during the Hoei era in the early 18th century, the transferred kami was enshrined together with that of Hinomisaki-jinja.

One issue is the absence of historical records for a shrine bearing the name ‘Chikumi’, despite Chikumi having been an important posting station. However, it is known that the details of ten shrines were lost during the transcription of the Izumo Fudoki. If we assume that a Chikumi-yashiro once existed, it is not unreasonable to suggest that the present Hinomisaki-jinja may in fact have originated as Nisa-jinja.

The enshrined deity, Tsukutsumi-no-kami, does not appear in the Nihon Shoki or Kojiki. However, the Fudoki describes this kami as a “descendant of Izanagi.” One theory suggests that this deity may be related to the moon god Tsukuyomi.

Pilgrimage Route Guide

The reconstruction of Sezaki Hinomisaki-jinja in 2015 (Heisei 27) was completed in October, following a temporary relocation of the shrine accompanied by a ‘yudate’ ceremony, in which priests sprinkle hot water over participants using bamboo leaves. A night kagura performance was also held for the first time in three years.

The kagura included well-known performances along with prayers for the prosperity of children born that year. The event concluded with the scattering of red and white rice cakes and sweets over the gathered crowd, creating a lively and energetic atmosphere.

Sezaki is also home to the ‘Sezaki Lookout’, mentioned in the Izumo Fudoki. After ascending to the shrine and looking back from the torii gate, visitors can take in the surrounding landscape. To the left rises the so-called “cape in the sky,” a phrase associated with Marine Park Takobana, located at the northernmost tip of the Shimane Peninsula. On clear days, Oki Island can be seen in the distance, offering spectacular views.

Oki Island once served as a place of exile, and its strategic position made it possible to monitor approaching vessels from afar.

Sezaki is also known as the site where Emperor Go-Daigo is said to have arrived after escaping from Oki Island during the Kenmu Restoration. Various local legends are still passed down, including that of the “pine rope,” referring to a pine tree once used by ships lost at sea to cast ropes toward for protection.

Additionally, during the Meiji-period separation of Shinto and Buddhism, Buddhist statues were reportedly removed from Oki Island and relocated. Today, five of these statues remain preserved in a nearby temple. Although slightly worn, they retain the powerful presence of works dating back to the Kamakura period.