Okidomari-ura

Historical Footprints

Today, Tsunokami-jinja stands on an elevated hill overlooking the sea, making its name—literally “the shrine above the harbor”—particularly fitting.

A shrine of the same name can also be found in Tayu-ura in Kashima Town. The name ‘Tsunokami’ may also be written using characters meaning “harbor deities,” suggesting a close connection between the shrine and maritime life.

In the 1717 publication “Unyoushi”, within the Shimane-gun section describing Nonami Bay, a shrine named ‘Tsunokami Myojin’ is recorded. Interestingly, the ‘kami’ portion of the name is written with a character meaning “to protect,” yet all variations are read as ‘tsugami’. This raises the question of which form represents the original name of the shrine.

The deities enshrined here do not appear in the Nihon Shoki or Kojiki, but they are found in the ‘Oharae no Norito’, a Shinto purification prayer recorded in the Engishiki, a Heian-period compilation of laws, customs, and religious practices.

From the name of the deity Oseritsu, it can be inferred that this is a water-related kami. According to tradition, this deity resides in the rapids of a river, washing impurities away into the “great wide sea,” a phrase that resonates with the place name Ōmi (great sea).

In this sense, the shrine’s location is highly appropriate, as it suggests a guardian deity watching over the harbor of Okidome.

According to shrine records, as in Tako-ura, the shrine was established during the Genroku era (1688–1704) through the ceremonial transfer of a tutelary deity by the Tsuwano Domain.

Of particular interest is the male deity Seoritsuhiko-no-kami, whose name does not appear in the Engishiki. It is thought that this kami may have originated locally in the Okidome area.

Pilgrimage Route Guide

From Konami Beach, head toward the hilly area and you will see a large sign on the left indicating Marine Park Tako Cape. As you descend toward the harbor, Tsunokami-jinja can be found on the hillside to the right.

It is noteworthy that this shrine, like Hachimangu in Tako Bay, was established through a ceremonial transfer by Tako Geki Saemon of the Tsuwano Domain.

The procession of a model representing the deity Toshitokugami is also an important ritual event at Okidome Port. As in other areas, adults encourage the children carrying the omikoshi (portable shrine) by calling out “Motto mawase!” urging them to keep it moving—a tradition passed down through generations.

At the harbor, there is a (currently closed) scuba diving school, where pink coral can be observed.

Near the entrance to the town, there is a parking area and public restrooms. A nearby side road leads to a small cave known as the ‘Shiokaki Hole’. Traditionally, seawater was collected here during the 49-day mourning period following the death of a close relative. However, due to recent road construction, access has become difficult, and families now perform shiokumi rituals at other nearby bays.

According to legend, the warrior monk Musashibo Benkei—said to have been born and raised in Nagami-cho in Matsue—collected seawater from this cave during his pilgrimage of the Forty-Two Bays in an effort to cure an eye ailment. It is said that he recovered after offering the seawater.

On the southeastern coast of Okidome lies an area known as the ‘Seven Holes of Tako’, including a cave called ‘Makuragiana’. This cave is associated with Kezoji Temple on Mount Makuragi. According to legend, the water used to wash rice at Kezoji Temple flows into this cave.

Approximately 80 years ago, four young men set out by boat to explore Makuragiana. After proceeding about 30 meters into complete darkness, they continued onward but eventually reached a dead end at around 80 meters. One can only imagine the psychological strain of such an experience in that eerie environment. The late Ono Keijiro of Sezaki recorded this expedition, noting the difficulty of providing a rational explanation for such a mysterious place.

Historical records of Kezoji Temple also mention that fishing boats once relied on the light from Mount Makuragi as a navigational guide, illustrating the close relationship between shrines, temples, and the Sea of Japan during the height of maritime activity.

English Translation: [ Louisa Morris ]