Oashi-ura

Historical Footprints

The current place name ‘Owashi’ appears in the Fudoki as ‘Osakihama’ in the section describing the coastal areas of the Shimane district. The shrine section of this passage lists two shrines, ‘Osaki-yashiro’ and ‘Osaki Kawabe-yashiro’, suggesting that this area has a rich historical background.

Following the flow of history, it is possible that the name ‘Oosaki’ evolved into ‘Ooashi’. However, the present name can be read in several ways—‘Owashi’, ‘Oashi’, or ‘Ooashi’—resulting in considerable confusion. These variations may be the result of linguistic shifts, misreadings, or mishearings over time. Yet over a span of 1,300 years, it is worth questioning whether such changes were purely accidental, or whether they reflect deliberate alterations in place names.

Historian Kato Yoshinari, in his 1998 work “Izumo no kuni no fudoki”, interpreted the characters read as ‘Oosaki’ as ‘Oohashi’. The character ‘saki’ can also carry a meaning similar to ‘hashi’, referring to something ahead or in front. From this perspective, it is not difficult to imagine how the pronunciation may have shifted from ‘hashi’ to ‘ashi’.

This leads to the question of how the Edo-period ‘Kunishi Daimyojin’ relates to the two shrines listed in the Fudoki.

The commonly used name for Oosaki Kawabe-jinja is ‘Kunishi-san’ (written with the characters for ‘country’ and ‘master’). This name originated in the Edo period from ‘Kunishi Daimyojin’, where ‘Kunishi’ is written using characters meaning ‘provincial governor’. By contrast, Oosaki-jinja is commonly referred to as ‘Hansaka-san’, a name that bears little resemblance to ‘Kunishi Daimyojin’, making a direct connection between the two unlikely.

According to the “Unyoushi”, the enshrined deity of Oosaki Kawabe-yashiro (‘Kunishi-san’) is Izanagi-no-mikoto, while the deity of Oosaki-yashiro (‘Hansaka-san’) is Izanami-no-mikoto. This pairing suggests that a foundational relationship between the two shrines was established long ago.

Oosaki Kawabe Shrine is located further inland than Oosaki Shrine. The Unyoushi records that “upon witnessing the impurity associated with Izanami-no-mikoto’s act of giving birth, Izanagi-no-mikoto purified himself in the salt waters. In commemoration of this act, he established a shrine at Ozaki Kawabe. People from the surrounding area come here to draw water and perform purification rituals.” This account is considered to form the basis of the Forty-Two Bay pilgrimage.

Pilgrimage Route Guide

Heading east along the coastal cliff road from Mitsu-jinja will bring you to Oashi Bay. From the upper section of the slope on the Shimane town side, looking down toward the base of the cliff, you can see a striking geological formation resembling waves frozen in motion. Locally, this is known as a ‘washing rock’.

This formation is especially intriguing when viewed in light of the mythology describing the Shimane Peninsula as land that was “pulled together.”

Oosaki Kawabe Shrine is located on the mountainside behind a general store further along the coast from Mitsu-jinja.

As part of the ‘Koujinsai’ festival (also locally known as ‘Chiinamaita’), held annually between October and November, a straw serpent measuring 20 to 30 meters in length is constructed to appease the tempestuous kami Susanoo-no-Mikoto. The ritual takes place along the beach and at several other nearby locations.

Rather than worshipping at sacred trees within the shrine grounds, prayers to Koujin are offered at trees throughout the mountains behind the village. On the beach, an eight-headed Orochi serpent is created, while in the inner areas of the bay, local children hide the serpent and adults search for it, exchanging sweets when it is found.

In 1997 (Heisei 9), a field below the shrine was converted into a fig orchard with approximately 150 trees. In 2009 (Heisei 21), the ‘Shimane Town Seabreeze Group’, led primarily by women from nearby communities interested in natural foods, was established. As part of their activities, they produce and sell fig-based products such as jam, yokan, and ice cream.

Fig cultivation in this area benefits from sea breezes, so all orchards are located within 500 meters of the shoreline. These products are available at the Matsue Products Tourist Hall and at ‘Marine Plaza’, the port where sightseeing boats depart.

After the peak cherry blossom season has passed at Nonami’s ‘Cherry Road’, numerous wild cherry trees can be seen on the mountainside south of Oosaki Kawabe Shrine. From Matsue, stay left at the ‘Matsue Gakuen’ sign and keep the Shimane Town Athletics Park on your right. Continue along the forest road, where signs will guide you to scenic spots such as ‘Shogunzakura’ and ‘Tenguzakura’.

English Translation: [ Louisa Morris ]