Chikumi-ura

Historical Footprints

Among all the coastal bays along the northern shore of the Shimane Peninsula, Chikumi held particular importance in ancient times. The Izumo no Kuni Fudoki describes Chikumi as a key passageway to the Oki Islands. It records that “there is a pine grove to the east, a posting station to the south, and dwellings to the north,” and also notes that “Tsukutsumi, a descendant of Izanagi, is enshrined here.”

The “Izumo Fudoki-sho,” compiled in the early Edo period by Kishizaki Tokiteru, directly links the former shrine name ‘Sansho-jinja’ with the ‘Nisa-yashiro’ recorded in the Fudoki. This connection has been maintained into the present day, and the shrine continues to be worshipped accordingly.

There is little doubt that the present-day Nisa-jinja was once known as Sansho Daimyojin. However, it is also possible that what is now called Nisa-jinja was originally known as ‘Chikumi-yashiro’, while, as noted in the Sezaki-ura section, Hinomisaki-jinja in Sezaki may once have been ‘Nisa-yashiro’.

Such overlapping identities and transitions in both place names and belief systems illustrate the complexity of historical development in this region, requiring careful study to fully understand.

The area to the north of Nisa-jinja is known as ‘Date’, which the former chief priest of Sada-jinja, Asayama Akira, suggested may indicate the presence of a former posting station.

Another point of interest is the embankment within the shrine grounds. After passing through the torii gate and approaching from the residential area of Chikumi, one walks toward what appears to be the sea. However, this can be misleading—the coastline in front of Nisa-jinja actually faces east, while the Oki Islands lie far to the north, visible in the distance to the left.

Inside the main hall, behind glass doors, visitors can view a plaque bearing verses from the Forty-Two Bay pilgrimage. The presence of a stone horse statue, donated in recent years, also serves as a reminder of Chikumi’s historical role as a posting station.

Pilgrimage Route Guide

Within the grounds of Nisa-jinja, to the right of the worship hall, stands a large stone statue (approximately 2 by 1.5 meters) depicting a sacred yabusame (mounted archery) horse.

An annual yabusame event is held in the afternoon of April 3 in the vicinity of the shrine. While yabusame in Tsuwano and on the Oki Islands is well known, Nisa’s tradition also boasts a history of over 450 years.

During the ritual, a young rider on horseback circles the town, shooting arrows at targets mounted on bamboo poles, praying for prosperity and the health of the community. After the ceremony, children are given the opportunity to ride the horse, creating lasting memories.

Following the archery ritual, two riders perform a ceremonial sumo bout inside the worship hall as an offering, praying for the continuation of the yabusame tradition in the coming year. Each side wins one round, with the final match ending in a draw—a format similar to sumo traditions on the Oki Islands.

Sumo itself is regarded as a sacred ritual requiring divine favor, and its performance here reflects its role as a Shinto offering, reminiscent of the ‘Tenran-zumo’ tournaments attended by the Emperor in modern times.

Displayed before the kami in the worship hall is a plaque titled “Izumo Forty-Two Bay and Salt Purification Verses.” The current plaque is a modern replacement of an older one that had deteriorated over time.

Nisa-jinja also serves as a year-round site for purification rituals. Participants immerse themselves in the nearby sea at dawn and offer seaweed at the shrine. Although the practices here are less strict than those at Miho-jinja—where fasting is required until purification is complete—the similarities in salt-based purification rites are evident.

On January 6, the shrine holds the ‘Otaue’ (rice-planting) ceremony. At Nisa-jinja, the farming implement used in the ritual takes the form of a ‘nusa’, a Shinto paper streamer. After touching seawater, participants leave the shrine, cross the road, and proceed to the sandy beach.

English Translation: [ Louisa Morris ]