Kaka-ura

Historical Footprints

In the Fudoki, Kaka-ura appears in the Shimane-gun section as “Kawakudono Ohama, dwellings present,” describing a wide coastal area with a beach approximately 500 meters in length.

Regarding the reading of the two characters used for the bay name in the Fudoki: without prior knowledge, they would typically be read as ‘Ka-ka’. However, in 726 the characters were slightly altered to a form generally read as ‘Ka-ga’, suggesting that the original pronunciation was likely ‘Kaga’. In modern times, however, the name is commonly pronounced ‘Kaka’, reflecting a preference for standard linguistic rules over historical pronunciation.

The inhabitants mentioned in the Fudoki would have practiced their own forms of worship, and the ‘Kaka-yashiro’ referred to in the text is most likely the ‘Kaka-jinja’ listed in the Engishiki (official shrine records). The enshrined deity, Kisakahime-no-mikoto, is known in Izumo mythology as the mother of Sada-no-Ookami, the deity of Sada-jinja.

Kisakahime-no-mikoto is also identified with the figure ‘Kisagahi-hime’ in the Kojiki, where she appears as the savior of Okuninushi. She is associated with shellfish and the sea.

The shrine is currently located near Shimane Elementary School in the Mukaida area, but it is believed that in ancient times it may have been enshrined within the Kukedo cave itself. This connection can still be felt upon entering the western cave, where a white wooden torii gate is set into the left-hand wall. It may evoke the presence of Kisakahime from ancient times.

A plaque inside the cave bears the 18th-century shrine name ‘Kukedo Daimyogu’. The sister deity, Umugaihime-no-mikoto, is enshrined at Hakki-jinja to the south.

The Kukedo mythology recorded in the Unyoushi reflects strong influence from earlier texts such as the Nihon Shoki and Kojiki, as seen in its emphasis on deities like Izanagi, Izanami, and Amaterasu. In more recent interpretations, however, focus has shifted back to the Fudoki tradition, restoring Kisakahime as the central deity, with the others regarded as accompanying kami. This change appears to mirror shifts in the enshrined deities at Sada-jinja.

Pilgrimage Route Guide

Kaka-jinja is located near the Shimane Community Center (Sports Hall and Library), just past the Marine Plaza pleasure boat port. The prayer hall houses eight large ema (wooden votive plaques), each measuring approximately 2 by 1 meters, depicting scenes such as the Genpei War (1180–1185) and Edo-period cargo ships. The site offers a strong sense of both faith and history.

Visitors are strongly encouraged to take a sightseeing boat tour departing from Marine Plaza, which provides access to Kukedo.

Kukedo consists of two caves. The seaward cave, known as the ‘new Kukedo’, leads into the ‘old Kukedo’. Tours operate between March and November and take approximately 50 minutes, though departures depend heavily on sea and weather conditions. It is advisable to confirm availability with the cruise office on the day of your visit.

According to the Izumo no Kuni Fudoki, Kukedo is the birthplace of Sada-no-Ookami, the deity of Sada-jinja, born to Kisakahime-no-mikoto. Within the old Kukedo cave lies ‘Sainokawara’, an area containing statues dedicated to deceased children, along with Jizo figures, making it a place of quiet reverence.

The Fudoki recounts the following legend: “This is where Sada-no-mikoto was born. As his birth approached, his father’s bow and arrows disappeared. Kisakahime prayed, ‘If this child is truly the son of my husband, Masura-kami, may the bow and arrows reappear.’ At that moment, a bow and arrows made of horn appeared in the water. She rejected them, saying they were not the missing ones. Soon after, golden bow and arrows emerged. Kisakahime retrieved them and exclaimed, ‘How dark this cavern is!’ She then fired a golden arrow into the cave wall, allowing sunlight to stream in. This place became the seat of her shrine.”

Even today, it is said that when passing through the cave, people call out loudly to calm the spirit of the cavern. If one proceeds in silence, the gods may become angered and stir up strong winds capable of capsizing boats.